(We also list this ingredient under E, for Everlasting Flower) All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe; its yellow flowers stay incredibly bright, even after theyve been dried. Lancme Hypnse Senses It goes brilliantly in tuberose compositions, and beautifully enhances chypres. I love the warm leather tones of this quality of styrax - but itneeds careful handling, though. LOccitane de Provence Verbena Sorbet, In common with many contemporary fragrance ingredients, jatamansi or spikenard, to give it a more familiar name was originally used in incense, as an element of sacred Roman, Indian, Hebrew and Egyptian ceremonies. Miller Harris La Fume If youre a fan of gourmand perfumes (read more about them here), then maybe and if you love Thierry Muglers ground-breaking Angel, the most renowned gourmand scent of all, for sure. Issey Miyake A Scent by Issey Miyake Prada Candy Prada Givenchy Amarige Its resinous. As perfumer Andy Tauer tells The Perfume Society, 'Lilac in perfumes is the note of spring, the promise of summer.'. Cool, green, shady: were eternally fascinated by how perfumers use scented ingredients to give a sense of temperature, through their creations. Diesel Loverdose But just like a real cocktail (paper parasol optional), it adds a sense of summer to fragrances. (Many naturals are positively timid on the skin.). Myrrh gets its name from the Hebrew murr or maror, which translates as bitter. Andy TauerUne Rose Vermeille Guerlain Iris Ganache. Clever perfumers know that other woods deliver similar effects, and can be used to replace its richness. C13? Mad et Len Eau de Fleur dOranger Its my new favourite word. Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly datura (a.k.a. What interests todays noses is the nutty, almost maple-syrup note obtained from its yellow-golden seeds and leaves. A highly important ingredient in perfumes. The name (who knew?) (See also cherry blossom, a floral note.) LArtisan Parfumeur Seville a lAube (Leading to the original name for perfume: per fumum, or through smoke) Myrrh was a key ingredient in the ancient incense kyphi, used to fumigate ancient Egyptian temples. Its the image of driftwood that this note really evokes visions of saltiness, seaside, water and lightness. Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse Memo Moon Safari The Body Shop Midnight Bakula Its been used in fragrance for millennia: the ancient Egyptians burned ambergris as incense, while the Chinese referred to ambergris as dragons spittle fragrance. Caron Narcisse Noir Cranberries and blackberries have similar aroma chemicals, but mostly, perfumers turn to one of two synthetics to recreate raspberry-ness: frambonine or raspberry ketone (which can also be used as a raspberry flavouring). "It has a light green aroma. 'Of course there isn't literally any deadly nightshade in the fragrance - but the overall effect of the perfume I created is deep, intense, intoxicating'. Britney Spears Fantasy In ancient Arabic perfumery, basil was known as the king of the fragrant plants. For a while, attempts were made to keep civet cats in captivity including in Britain to ensure a ready supply of this perfume ingredient. Developers like Ray Matts always used large amounts of it in his fragrances as it gave a huge trail," says perfumer Olivier Gillotin. Lancme Aroma Tonic DKNY Energising for Women GoutalParis Heure Exquise There are around 200 different types of magnolia (named after a renowned French botanist, Pierre Magnol, who came up with the concept of classifying flora into plant families). But in perfumery, it features more often as whats known as a fantasy note: a synthetic, designed to conjure up an image here, the soft, voluptuous beauty of this winter-blossoming shrub. Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire Indeed, there are so many varieties and cross-overs (see below for a selection from Wikipedia's extensive page), that to date, no one author has successfully categorised them all. Byredo Green What is it? Symbolically, it stands for harmony, love and grace but in fact you can put an innocent spin on gardenia, or a racy one. Thierry Mugler Angel Fragonard Fragonard But if youve ever received (or even grown) one of these bulbs (generally at Christmas), youll know what the name means: this trumpet-shaped flower really blooms when the foliage has died down. Yardley Royal Diamond. Vivienne Westwood Boudoir datura) have been prized as sacred in many cultures. He was so taken with the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it into a fragrance and you can still smell that today, Boadicea the Victorious Complex Meo FusciuniNotturno. Gucci Guilty Map of the Heart an Abundance of Creativity. Max Mara Max Mara Guerlain Samsara LOccitane de ProvenceCitrus Verbena Intense "The appeal of this material is its complexity and variety depending on the treatment of the plant. Xerjoff Irisss Este Lauder Private Collection (And seems to work equally well on members of the opposite sex.) Once upon a time, frangipani was the name of an actual perfume produced by an aristocratic Roman Renaissance family by the name of Frangipani, and created by mixing orris (iris root), spices, civet and musk. It is more theleather that you expect your gloves to exhale. Jovoy La Liturgie des Heures Off-screen, this flowering plant flourishes further afield than the European alps, where its a protected species: edelweiss is nowadays most commonly found in Javanese mountain regions. DiorLes Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorella (Over the centuries, its also been valued as a medicinal and was actually recommended by the famous herbalist John Gerard; elecampane has been prescribed for shortness of breath and water retention.) That's really confirmed by perfumer Julie Mass, who based whole fragrance around Atropa belladonna - called (yes!) And at the same time, a wide range of synthetic sandalwood-like ingredients are now used in place of this at-risk wood, to give that smooth milkiness. LArtisan Parfumeur Jatamansi To me, it smells confident, sexy, feminine, while exuding modernity through its green facet," says perfumer Natasha Ct. Nerolis perfect in white florals, or in Colognes, which accent its citrus edge and its popular in fragrances for men, as well as for women. Actually, its a flower closer to the cottage garden pink similar to the variety so loved by British gardeners, and known as clove-pink which is used in perfumery. 'So far, I have used black pepper only once in my perfumes- together with a bundle of citrus and vetiver. In Ambre structures,it has a sweet, comforting effect, taking you back to childhood. Evody Pomme dOr Its part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, Bobbi Brown Baby Do you hate it? These are the types of challenges which perfumers face: the back-stories you cant imagine, when you un-stopper a bottle! As an alternative, perfumers have turned to synthetic oud, although trained noses will tell you that it smells plainer, woody and leathery but without the warm, balsamic qualities. Givenchy Ange ou Demon 19th Century courtesans in Shanghai used it to dye their underwear a vibrant yellow. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Thierry Mugler Angel, Juicy watermelon has been quenching perfume-lovers thirst for fruity notes a lot, recently, thanks to the trend for fruity-florals. Oscar de la Renta Live in Love Tart and sweet. I love them for that. Through history, peony was known for its medicinal powers, and in Traditional Chinese Medicine its still used to treat night sweats, injuries and stomach pains. Rosewood has been prized by carpenters and furniture makers for centuries: we know it as rock-solid, strong, darkly handsome and perfect for everything from guitars to chess pieces. It looks like cinnamon. Cartier Le Must de Cartier Hypnotic, heady, almost intoxicatingly sweet, tiar wafts its exotic way into white floral scents and Ambres. Today, mandarins grow in many countries: across Italy, Sicily, Spain, Florida, Argentina, Brazil and more. The natural oil is also used in the liqueur Chartreuse (with its signature bright yellow-green colour, evoking the flowers of the plant itself), while the stem can be candied. Does beeswax smell? Its a sensory experience: that candied breath of sugar. When the leaves and twigs are distilled alongside the flowers, you have whats referred to as petitgrain sur le fleur. Acqua di Stresa Acqua di Stresa The fruit can be round, or oval, depending on which species youre looking at and the skins can range from yellow or green to maroon. (Aromatherapeutically, mimosa is said to have properties that help to relieve stress and depression, FYI.). (Beware, though: neat eucalyptus oil should be kept away from babies and small children, and avoided by those who suffer from asthma. (When you smell gin, youre basically smelling juniper, actually.) Fresh Brown Sugar Chlo LoveChlo (And dont blame us if youre busted sniffing the fruitbowl!) Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan. Its collected from the stems in small drops (tears). Womens chypres, and mens fragrances, are most likely to have a leathery sensuality, but perfumers can take leather on all sorts of fragrant journeys: woody, aromatic, floral, even gourmand. Chanel Allure Production of this beautiful powdery, soft, floral, elegant note requires great patience hence the hefty price-tag. "Jasmin Sambac adds richness and naturality to all my creations and is quintessential for my floral bouquets.. (Although some gifted natural perfumers manage recreate the smell of honeysuckle through clever alchemy of other naturals) Depending on the other notes used, it can enhance a touch of aniseed, blend romantically with other white florals orange blossom and jasmine or add a fresh green note, GoutalParis Eau de Camille Calvin Klein Euphoria But in a perfume? But yes, in the wild, some do: the Cattleya orchid, in particular though even that varies, from heady and vanilla-y to light and clean. Come Tudor times, quilted jackets and caps were stuffed with lavender. 1 ', Goutal Paris Eau de Lavande Ormonde Jayne Tiar. And Anthemis nobilis Roman camomile, English camomile, true camomile, call it what you will is sweet and heady, though also with an apple-iness. (The shoots, leaves and seeds are also used in cooking, while ambrette flowers are sometimes used to add scent and flavour to tobacco). Just one downside to this uplifting fruit: the oil must be used with caution: anything but the teensiest squeeze can prove phototoxic, staining the skin if worn in sunlight. Alienor adds: 'It's smells like tea, actually.' A chemical aroma described as a smooth, woody, amber note with a velvet-like sensation. Chanel Cristalle It also blends beautifully with sweet pea and with tuberose. In fact, there are two variietes of cardamom: earthy, smoky black cardamom and the fresher, almost minty, eucalyptus-y green cardamom. But if the Christmas trees the most familiar member of the pine family, its just one of 115 varieties that grow mostly in the Northern hemisphere. Goutal Paris Le Masmin 5 its airy overture: it tethers the creation). It all began in Ancient Egypt, where incense was first created using precious gums and resins from trees, imported from the Arabian coast and Somalia. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture "Crystalline in form and snow-white in color, coumarins presence in fragrances is ubiquitous. Jo MaloneGrapefruit Dior JAdore If you smell different concentrated absolutes (the oily liquids created through macerating the jasmine flowers), they have their own characters: some smell medicinal, some sweet, some musky, some green. But Illolahia adds that musk "is rarely used today because musk deer are endangered," and that chemists have been refining synthetic alternatives since the late 19thcentury. (A tradition wed quite like to see revived!). (Its also known as copahu balm.) (The seeds, meanwhile, can also be used in pot pourri.). But its easy to see (or rather, smell) why white chocolate could add an almost edibly delicious creaminess to a fragrance. Caron Tubereuse Pierre Balmain Ambre Gris Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatal But as the stories behind fragrance ingredients go, they surely dont come much more romantic than that, Prada Les Infusions de Prada Iris Its light and flighty though, so it works as a top note then flits off, leaving an impression but not hanging around to be judged. "Ozone has been used for many years but really exploded after the creation of L'eau D'Issey in 1992. Its widely used in white florals, and scents seeking to capture springtime-in-a-bottle, but because real hyacinth oil produced by a process of extraction is heart-stoppingly expensive, cant-tell-it-from-real synthetic hyacinth notes are what perfumers turn to, nowadays. Diptyque LEau de Hesperides The Body Shop Patchouli Guerlain Terracotta Eau Sous le Vent LArtisan Parfumeur Jour de Fte A couple of cutting-edge perfumers Romano Ricci (with Not a Perfume) and Geza Schoen (Escentric Molecule 02) have daringly based an entire perfume around this synthetic note, which was discovered in the 1950s as a replacement for ambergris. Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb, Anise, aniseed same thing: an annual herb (parsley family, FYI), which grows in the eastern Mediterranean region and south-west Asia, and has a strong licorice/fennel/tarragon flavour, often enjoyed in alcoholic drinks or sweeties (the famous aniseed balls of your grannys childhood), Its sweet and very aromatic, and really very popular in perfumery as a result: the most celebrated example is Guerlains gorgeous, iconic LHeure Bleu. I love to cook with cinnamon. 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