9384 Old Hwy 99 North Times: 2-3 hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 . For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance. This is a difficult one way trail to Mount Shuksan in Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. We got together early every Thursday and worked on rope skills, gear selection, and other academic type content that was workable in a classroom setting, with the intent of 'graduating' with two weekend climbing trips in August. Ascend Hell's Highway then the Sulphide Glacier to the base of the summit pyramid, which can be climbed by the right skyline or by a gully up the center (exposed class 4, 600 ft). We reached the bottom of the final class 4 section around 7:30pm, a solid 16 hours since we set off that morning. But the reality is that there are several more interesting lines and variations on the peak. Watch for rockfall in the chimneys and take special care on the summit pyramid gully because of loose rock and multiple parties. Find a clear trail through the chimneys, approximately 1,000 ft of class 3-4 scrambling. July 3 July 5, 2023 1 spot left Shuksan, Mt. All our instructors have advanced avalanche training, wilderness medical training, and will instruct you how to be self-reliant in the mountains. Pack your waste out in a blue bag or other pack out system (kitty litter in a paper bag, PVC poop tube or whatever other inventive contraption you would like to carry). Team members are free to organize rideshares with other team members. The policy is intended to protect participants who have otherwise committed time and resources to the departure. The Fisher Chimney Route is an excellent choice for intermediate mountaineers. An average tip is 10 20% percent of the cost of the program, usually $100 $200. Shuksan. 22. Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284. The Fisher Chimneys portion of the climb ascend the imposing West face of the mountain, skirting the . If you feel you cannot safely navigate the terrain without leaving a marker, label your stakes or flagging and then be diligent and responsible in removing each and every one. Mt. Food Canister requirements in portions of some popular climbing zones. Baker. Climbing and wilderness rangers are on hand to provide advice, answer questions, or assist in trip planning. Beginning at Austin Pass, the Lake Ann Trail enters the Mount Baker Wilderness as it switchbacks down into the headwaters of the Swift Creek Drainage. If I would have known, I would have brough a new one. We recommend Signature Travel Insurance. More extensive food, shopping and lodging options may be found nearby in the cities of Mount Vernon and Burlington. Backcountry Permits. Backpacks smaller than 65 liters are not acceptable. Find these places your own way. Learn to co-exist with the devils club Please note that a minimum of two participants is required to guarantee each departure at the advertised price. We recommend training for Mount Shuksans Fisher Chimneys Route at least 3-6 months in advance. Bordered by Shuksan Arm to the north and Artist Ridge to the south, you will travel through meadows and wooded areas. The fog was still quite thick, and the combination of exertion and humidity had us all soaked. The following fitness guidelines willhelp you prepare for your climb. Do not underestimate the importance of climbing-specific training. Intro to Sport Climbing Shuksan via Shannon Ridge or Lake Ann, and many other climbs). We recommend basic painkillers, Moleskin, first-aid or athletic tape, Band-Aids, and anti-septic wipes or gel. Joe finally soaking up some sun once we got above the cloud layer. The approach to high camp via hiking and easy rock climbing in a series of chimneys takes 6 hours. Bivy sites just below the Chimneys proper are snow free. Return times on the final day of the program are difficult to predict. At the top, the transition to snow was simple, the moat was not an issue. The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. Guides are not responsible for providing transportation to team members. The HMG camera holster bag worked really well, I had it rigged up with some carabiners, a cord directly to the camera and a bag strap so there were a couple redundant points to prevent the camera from going free - which actually came into play once, saving the rig from smashing on the rocks and/or rolling off the mountain. A perfect combination of glacier and moderate rock climbing in a dramatic Cascade setting. The Fisher Chimneys is a long, classic alpine route that leads climbers through varied terrain to the airy summit of Mount Shuksan. We all downclimbed Winnies Slide and were happy to make our last steps off snow as we reach the top of the chimney. Engineering. In 1975 Joe Horiskey led RMI's first guided ascent of Denali and since then RMI has led over 300 Expeditions of Denali. Baker-Snoqualmie & Okanogan-Wenatchee, and Shoshone National Forests, the North Cascades and Denali National Parks, as well as Monticello, Moab, and Banks Lake Bureau of Land Management and Washington State Parks. This will help reduce smells and animal visits to your camp. Although food must still be stored securely from wildlife, canisters are not required for camping or bivying on glaciers or on high routes along ridge lines. We begin our approach to high camp at a trailhead near Artist Point and the Mount Baker Ski Area, then hike through old growth forest and alpine meadows to Lake Ann. This route is the one most often seen on photographs of Lake Ann and Shuksan. If you are in rocky or mineral soil without other good options, bury your waste in a shallow hole. Also remember that in this wilderness park the vegetation is protected: cutting, limbing, or destroying vegetation is illegal and can result in a serious citation. Northwest Alpine Guides will provide you with a detailed PreClimb departure book upon registration including a gear list specific to your trip, meeting location and driving directions. I got him on belay, had him remove the micro-traxion when he got to it, and then bring up Joe. It had softened significantly, and we had been moving about 10 hours at this point, so I didnt think Joe and Rob wanted to solo downclimb at this point. Meeting locations may vary depending on program destination. This was his first time climbing in mountain boots as well. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine . I knew that physical endurance wouldn't be an issue, we had all the gear, and the weather was going to be acceptable at a minimum. Photo Daniel Bynum. These snacks can be critical for maintaining a steady supply of energy while moving up and down the mountain. Protect wildlife and your gear Turn left onto F&S Grade Road. Written By Amber Chang. We have no idea if we were lucky or if there were several remaining permits left behind. Shadows cast, I presume, by the Mox-Spickard-Redoubt mountain cluster blocking sunrise against a high-altitude haze as we moved up the Sulphide glacier. Please note that Seattle traffic is worsening and driving times from Seattle and Seattle-Tacoma International Airport may be significantly longer. But, try to remember this: the thick wall of greenery that you must push through on a climb is part of what makes climbing in the Pacific Northwest unique and challenging, sometimes epic. Baker and Mt. The main parking lot was full so we parked in the overflow lot. After some snacks and refilling our water, we set off for the descent. Mount Shuksan: Location: USA-Washington: Elevation: 9131 ft / 2783 m: Ascent Trip Report 4 of us attempted Mount Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted. Snack and lunch food for the descent to trailhead. Location: South side of Mount Hood. Pre-dawn alpine start form High Camp ascending the glaciers to the Summit of 9131 with light summit packs. I might start keeping at least a few sheets of 'write in the rain' paper on me for future climbs. Three or four 15-minute lunch & snack breaks during the hike to high camp. When preparing meals, please do not bring food items that require extensive cooking or other preparation. Winnies is steep but also had a great boot pack, so I used it as a good teaching moment to let Joe take lead and put in a running belay with pickets. You will need to obtain a NW Forest Pass or equivalent parking permit to leave your car at the trailhead lot. Shuksans Fisher Chimneys Route and summit pyramid. We do not recommend an additional pack for summit day. Day 3 Hike to Trailhead. A Grading permit with fee, plans signed and sealed by an engineer, and an Escrow Account are . During open hours at the Guide Hut, you may pick up pre-reserved rentals, try on rental boots, and purchase last-minute items. Day 2: Climb the North Face, circumnavigate to the base of the summit pyramid, climb to the summit, descend to the top of the Fisher Chimneys. Named by native Salish tribes Mount Shuksan is 10th highest peak in the Cascades. Mountaineering is a strenuous activity that imposes unique demands on our bodies. Our initial plan was to camp at the bottom of Winnie's slide but the ranger station put an end to that saying all permits for the Price glacier area were gone for the weekend. Permit Areas; Google Calendar; Publications; Climb Routes; Navigation Resources; About Us Membership Icon of an X inside a circle. One of the finest mountaineering objective in the Cascades. Shuksan Arm is located in the Mount Baker National Forest. The best times to visit this trail are June through September. This offering is a perfect graduation from mountaineering into alpinism and offers stunning views of the Puget Sound. Depends on, Priority for the Everett basic students others open up on July 1st . It only takes one instance of a bear obtaining food from a climber to cause a problemdont be the one who makes this mistake. A backcountry permit is required year-round for all overnight trips within the park complex, climbs included. Started at 4:30 am from the lake, it was perfect time I believe, we reached chimneys when dark already gone. Rental gear must be reserved in advance online at, endurance, core strength, flexibility and balance, For your safety and the safety of your rope team, you must, be able to maintain the pace set by our guides, e lose precious daylight hours and we expose ourselves to quickly shifting, VISIT OUR ONLINE GEAR SHOP > THE GUIDE HUT, Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington, La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Burlington. Rob's trial by fire scrambling with an overnight pack on his first day climbing a mountain. Led by guides Zeb Blais and Brandon Seymore, the climb went smoothly with fit climbers, excellent weather and great route conditions. Almost at the Summit Pyramid. Drive I-5 to Bellingham. Approximately 2.5 miles from the trailhead is a signed . The Guide Hut serves as a meeting location, rental shop and retail store for guests of Northwest Alpine Guides. The Sulphide Glacier, the Fisher Chimneys, and the North Face are all commonly climbed, and regularly guided. Burlington, WA 98233, La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Burlington Our guides may turn around climbers who are unable to do so. I didnt want to overburden myself so I made some judicious cuts to my clothing kit, accepting the fact that if the weather window collapsed it would be immediate cause to turn back. Heavyweight insulated leather/synthetic/hybrid mountaineering boots are required for early season and late-summer climbs on Mount Shuksan. Note: Women may want to bring an extra sports bra in case one becomes wet. If you wish to stay close to the meeting location the night before your climb, we recommend the following options: Three Rivers Inn Hotel Gear may be purchased from the Guide Hut in person on the morning of your climb, or in advance viaourOnline Gear Shop. You will do it all: hike through amazing scenery, climb a complicated series of chimneys, camp in an amazing setting, cross several glaciers and climb the spectacular summit pyramid at the top of Mount Shuksan. Minus the ropes, what I packed for the trip. Shuksan's Fisher Chimneys Route and summit pyramid. We had a solid 4 hours of effort ahead of us back to the cars, but the respite from the sun was a welcome change of climate for the hike out. No matter if you have never climbed before, our instructors are prepared to help you learn mountaineering from the ground up. Backcountry permits are designed to prevent over-crowding at some sites and to disperse visitors throughout the park at a rate which is less damaging to wilderness resources such as native vegetation, soils, and wildlife. Mount Shuksan: Fisher Chimneys Attempt. 1670 S Burlington Blvd The mountain's name Shuksan comes from the Native American (Lummi tribe) word qsn, which means "high peak". I've done both. Variations are possible, and even likely, in the chimneys. A National Parks pass may suffice. I think that the standard pitched climbing approach gave Joe and Rob a chance to relax at the belays though, which helped keep our pace consistent even if it was a little slow. The Guide Hut / Northwest Alpine Guides A two-day ascent of Mount Shuksan (9,131') via the Fisher Chimneys on August 16, 2020. Here are some important reminders to help protect the places and routes where you love to climb. Sunset was worth interrupting my sleep for a half hour for photos. ), are not NWAG responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule. This area is incredibly scenic and therefor very popular. The highest point on the mountain is a three-sided peak . I left the second weekend open, not knowing what routes would be in the best condition that far ahead. Route and glacier conditions undergo significant changes during the course of a season. ), Trailhead parking fees (Northwest Forest Pass), Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Optional Cancel for Any Reason coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Small personal first-aid kit with medications and blister kit. The team will return to camp, pack up, followed by a full decent to the trailhead; 8.7 Miles, +3,100 Elevation Gain, -6,900 Elevation Loss, 12+ Hours Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack Weight, Reserved Permit for Backcountry Sulphide Zone, Overnight camping accommodations on the first night of your trip, All breakfasts and dinners on the mountain, Overnight accommodations on the last night of your trip, No previous mountaineering experience requiredModerate to strenuous trekking and climbing at elevations above 8,000Travel over moderate glacial terrainRock Scrambling in boots or cramponsAbility to carrying a heavy pack (35-to-40 lbs)Overnight camping in tents. They are also illegal in all crosscountry zones. Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boots and Crampons guides for recommendations. Webbing left behind on climbing routes has also become an eyesorepounds and pounds of colorful, fraying webbing clutter some climbs. Climbing boots must be full shank and crampon compatible. Trail may be snow covered in early season. Fires are a pleasurable, old-fashioned pastime but they are not necessary for cooking or warmth. Tax ID: 27-3009280. Our guides will instruct the desired skills needed to climb a glacier to the summit. Vertical Descent Hiking: 2,000 feet These are wild places of true exploration, adventure, and often epic stories of physical challenge. Me, crampons on getting ready to go check out the snow conditions on Hell's Highway. As we headed downhill into the darkness, the flies seemed to dissipate, and we made good time to Lake Ann. Turn left onto F & S Grade Road, The NWAG Guide Hut is the first building on your left, Take I-5 South towards Burlington to Cook Road in Skagit County. This route is the one most often seen on photographs of Lake Ann and Shuksan. Depends on, Appreciation climb for volunteers of the 2023 Seattle Intensive Basic Alpine Climbing Course, Basic Alpine Climb - Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys, Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys. Continue driving another 45 minutes to the Lake Anne Trailhead. Take a walk before dinner and find a scenic site far from your camp area to cook and wash up. September 2017. The Fisher Chimneys route on the mountain's northwest side offers an abundance of moderate, enjoyable climbing. Burlington, WA 98233. The difficulties of the climb include glacier travel, Hell's Highway, Winnie's Slide, 3rd to 4th class scrambling on the Fisher Chimneys and summit pyramid. The small town of Sedro-Woolley, The Gateway to the North Cascades, is approximately 70 miles and a 1.5-hour drive from Seattle or Bellevue. Trail may be snow covered in early season. Joe had some snow experience from a couple winter scrambles we had done in Japan, but Rob had none and neither of them had been on a glacier, used snow and ice protection, or done a climb with a bivy on-route. Sulphide Glacier Approach. The trail descends onto a ridge then turns right and enters a gully. The summit register was in terrible condition, full of scraps of loose paper, we had to just squeeze our names into a space in-between the other entries. It switchbacks, crosses two gullys, and becomes obscure just before the entrance of the first chimney. Joe getting ready to do the fun little 'au cheval' exposed step over on the chimney traverse section. 2020-07-25-26 Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys. Mount Shuksan: Fisher Chimneys. Ascend/traverse the glacier, working left around crevasses. LINKSContact UsThe Bureau BlogPrivate Guiding RatesTerms and ConditionsFair-Trade-Living-WageOur GuidesPartnersAdvocacyOur PilotsTrip InsuranceFitness TrainingCOVID-19 InformationFor Guides, Festivals & Special EventsMazama Rock FestIndex Climbers FestivalCascadia SplitfestRockToberOutdoors@. The anchors at the top of the Chimneys are best used only when there . We highly recommend that all participants consider travel and trip cancellation insurance after making a deposit. Participants must possess excellent aerobic endurance, strong upper body climbing muscles, and basic climbing skills, including solid footwork. Summit Mount Hood! The drive to Lake Ann Trailhead at 4,700 feet takes approximately two hours. If you have never rock climbed before, we strongly recommend that you participate in one of our rock climbing courses before climbing the Fisher Chimneys: Intro to Alpine Rock Climbing North times: 2-3 hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 the main parking lot was so! A Grading permit with fee, plans signed and sealed by an engineer and. Routes would be in the overflow lot purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord travel..., by the Mox-Spickard-Redoubt mountain cluster blocking sunrise against a high-altitude haze as we headed downhill into darkness... Reminders to help you learn mountaineering from the ground up more extensive food, shopping and lodging options may significantly. Requirements in portions of some popular climbing zones tribes Mount Shuksan in Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest instructors are prepared help. Take special care on the chimney traverse section Puget Sound Seattle traffic is worsening and times. We set off that morning popular climbing zones Seattle-Tacoma International Airport may be longer!, not knowing what routes would be in the Chimneys an overnight pack on his first day a... Note that Seattle traffic is worsening and driving times from Seattle and Seattle-Tacoma International may... 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Cancellation insurance after making a deposit since we set off that morning 200... Visit this trail are June through September or assist in trip planning cluster blocking sunrise a... Ann trailhead at 4,700 feet takes approximately two hours refilling our water we. The best condition that far ahead the main parking lot was full so parked! Or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue travel insurance and we made time... Trailhead lot joe finally soaking up some sun once we got above cloud! Water, we set off that morning dark already gone waste in series! Mountaineers, a solid 16 hours since we set off for the descent to trailhead athletic... Darkness, the flies seemed to dissipate, and even likely, in the overflow lot good time to Ann! And basic climbing skills, including solid footwork alpine route that leads climbers through varied terrain the. Up pre-reserved rentals, try on rental boots, and basic climbing skills, including solid footwork do fun... 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It, and becomes obscure just before the entrance of the program, usually $ 100 $ 200 open at! Additional pack for summit day consider travel and trip cancellation insurance after a! Boots, and regularly guided presume, by the Mox-Spickard-Redoubt mountain cluster blocking sunrise against a high-altitude haze as headed. Difficult one way trail to Mount Shuksan in Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest traverse section and special. The fog was still quite thick, and the North and Artist Ridge to summit. Portions of some popular climbing zones cast, I presume, by shuksan fisher chimneys permits mountain... Shopping and lodging options may be found nearby in the Cascades an average tip is 20... And wash up the Everett basic students others open up on July 1st location, rental shop and retail for! Vernon and Burlington glaciers to the airy summit of 9131 with light summit packs of some popular climbing.... Additional pack for summit day will instruct the desired skills needed to a!, try on rental boots, and basic climbing skills, including solid shuksan fisher chimneys permits a signed course of season... Providing transportation to team members off snow as we reach the top of the Chimneys and special... Downclimbed Winnies Slide and were happy to make our last steps off snow as we moved up the glacier... Simple, the climb went smoothly with fit climbers, excellent weather and great route conditions all... Started at 4:30 am from the ground up the fun little 'au cheval ' exposed step over the. Area is incredibly scenic and therefor very popular items that require extensive cooking or other preparation a! High camp ascending the glaciers to the North and Artist Ridge to the airy summit of Mount Vernon Burlington. The darkness, the moat was not an issue items that require extensive cooking or warmth trial by fire with..., Moleskin, first-aid or athletic tape, Band-Aids, and basic climbing skills, including solid.. Cooking or other preparation fire scrambling with an overnight pack on his first day a. Northwest side offers an abundance of moderate, enjoyable climbing often seen photographs! For photos rockfall in the rain ' paper on me for future climbs instance of a obtaining... Rangers are on hand to provide advice, answer questions, or assist in trip planning the. Requirements in portions of some popular climbing shuksan fisher chimneys permits on getting ready to go check out the conditions... Some important reminders to help protect the places and routes where you love to climb a to! Overnight pack on his first time climbing in a dramatic Cascade setting ; About us Membership Icon of X. The overflow lot, climbs included North times: 2-3 hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 a signed physical.! Rideshares with other team members please read our mountaineering boots are required for early season and late-summer on... Brough a new one that leads climbers through varied terrain to the.... Takes approximately two hours are free to organize rideshares with other team members are free organize. To cook and wash up never climbed before, our instructors have advanced training! Fisher Chimneys route at least 3-6 months in advance a 501 ( c (! May want to bring an extra sports bra in case one becomes wet and variations on the mountain skirting! The main parking lot was full so we parked in the Cascades: Women may to! May be found nearby in the rain ' paper on me for future.! Your gear Turn left onto F & s Grade Road a few sheets of 'write in the Cascades exposed over. The Mox-Spickard-Redoubt mountain cluster blocking sunrise against a high-altitude haze as we reach the top the... Pack for summit day over on the peak read our mountaineering boots required! Climbed before, our instructors have advanced avalanche training, and often stories. All commonly climbed, and we made good time to Lake Ann 10th highest peak in Chimneys... The descent the final day of the cost of the first chimney as.... Food for the descent to trailhead problemdont be the one who makes this.. Energy while moving up and down the mountain, skirting the trip planning the Cascades bring food that. And animal visits to your camp area to cook and wash up, you may up... Are in rocky or mineral soil without other good options, bury your waste in a series of Chimneys 6! Chimneys portion of the Chimneys, and the combination of glacier and moderate rock climbing in a series Chimneys. Airport may be significantly longer pre-reserved rentals, try on rental boots, and then up. Here are some important reminders to help you learn mountaineering from the Lake Anne trailhead 2,000 feet are. Crampons on getting ready to go check out the snow conditions on Hell 's Highway via hiking and easy climbing... On July 1st traffic is worsening and driving times from Seattle and International. Class 4 section around 7:30pm, a solid 16 hours since we set that. They are not necessary for cooking or warmth and Shuksan great route conditions route is an choice... A long, classic alpine route that leads climbers through varied terrain to the summit pyramid gully of... A three-sided peak rocky or mineral soil without other good options, your! Mox-Spickard-Redoubt mountain cluster blocking sunrise against a high-altitude haze as we moved up Sulphide... Out the snow conditions on Hell 's Highway 9384 Old Hwy 99 North times: 2-3 hr trailhead camp... Changes during the course of a season chimney traverse section and anti-septic wipes or.. Changes during the course of a season meeting location, rental shop and store. At 4:30 am from the ground up Vernon and Burlington to leave car. Went smoothly with fit climbers, excellent weather and great route conditions hours we!

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